Material and Visual Cultures of Dress in European Courts (1400-1815)

Power Dressing at Court in Europe (1400 –1815) [Book]

2011-10-03T04:48:00.001-07:00

Theroyal court was a place to see and be seen, and nowhere has society’s concernfor appearances been more visible. What did the manner of dress convey in this “societyof the spectacle”? Sartorial appearance was a powerful driving force behindcultural practices relating to the body and identity. It activated a wholeluxury market and fuelled the dynamics of exchange between the European courts.This volume looks at the attire of royals and courtiers in Europe between 1400and 1815, a period that saw the rise of court society. Kings and queens wereamong the first to understand the power of clothing and wore it to the highestdegree of sophistication. Dress was a means to govern and to rule. Far fromfollowing a rigid system of codified appearances, court dress followed the fashionof its time, in which it played a key role at home and abroad. While courtdress was an important part of this sumptuous, material culture of the past, itendures in our visual culture today; on haute couture runways and on thescreen, costume gives new meanings to appearance, inextricably linked, as ever,to the performance of the body and of textiles.

Isabelle Paresys & Natacha Coquery (éd.), Se vêtir à la cour en Europe (1400-1815), Villeneuve d'Ascq, Centre de recherche du château de Versailles, Institut de recherche du Septentrion et CEGES université de Lille 3, (collection Europedu Nord-Ouest), octobre 2011.

For sale on : http://commandes.recherche.univ-lille3.fr/publications/irhis/379-se-vetir-a-la-cour-en-europe-1400-1815.html

18,40€ until the 31th december 2011 (23€ after)

Sevêtir à la cour en Europe (1400-1815), une introduction

Isabelle Paresys et NatachaCoquery

Première partie : L’habit de cour en politique

La construction d’uneimage : Philippe le Bon et le noir (1419-1467)

Sophie Jolivet

L’étoffe de ses rêves : le vêtement duprince et ses parures emblématiques à la fin du Moyen Âge

Olga Vassilieva-Codognet

Factionand Fashion: The Politics of Court Dress in Eighteenth-Century England

HannahGreig

Le pouvoir de l’habit ou l’habitdu pouvoir

Philip Mansel

Deuxième partie : Choix vestimentaires etgarde-robes royales

Lagarde-robe de l’impératrice Isabelle de Portugal (1526-1539)

María José Redondo Cantera

The International Wardrobe of Emperor Rudolf II:Visual and Textual Representations of an Early Modern Emperor’s Clothes(1552-1612)

MilenaHajná

Vêtir les souverains français àla Renaissance : les garde-robes d’Henri II et de Catherine deMédicis en 1556 et 1557

Isabelle Paresys

DressingCharles II: The King’s ClothingChoices (1660-1685)

Maria Hayward

Garde-robede souverain et réseau international : l’exemple de la Bavière dans lesannées 1680

CorinneThépaut-Cabasset

Troisième partie : L’habit de cour et la mode

Petiteétude du grand habit à travers les mémoires quittancés de la comtesse d’Artois(1773-1780)

Pascale Gorguet-Ballesteros

Marie-Louise de Parme, reine d’Espagne habillée à la française(1751-1819); Pilar Benito García

Fashion and the Reinvention of Court Costume in Portrayalsof Josephine de Beauharnais (1794-1809)

Susan L. Siegfried

Quatrième partie : L’autre scène de l’habitde cour : cinéma, théâtre, podium

L’Élisabeth I^rede Shekar Kapur ou le rôledu costume de cour au cinéma

Daniel Devoucoux

Marie-Antoinette, reine del’écran

Nicole Foucher-Janin

Lecostumier, l’artisan et l’habit de cour : créer, fabriquer et représenterle gentilhomme sur scène et à l’écran

SylviePerault

De l’influence du costumede cour sur la création haute couture de Christian Lacroix

Martine Villelongue

Dates of the symposium : June 3rd, 4th and 5th 2009

2009-04-27T23:30:00.000-07:00

The Symposium will be held on June 3rd, 4th and 5th at the auditorium of the Versailles Palace.

Registration for the public of the Symposium

2009-04-27T01:39:00.000-07:00

The material organization of the Symposium is supported by the Research Centre of the Versailles Palace.

It is compulsory to register the public for the symposium because there is limited seating in the Auditorium of the Versailles Palace.

Registration form on: http://www.chateauversailles-recherche.fr/form/

Main themes of the Symposium

2008-04-23T05:48:00.000-07:00

Material & Visual Cultures of Dress in European Courts
(1400-1815)

An international symposium devoted to the material and visual cultures of dress in the European courts (1400-1815) will be held in Versailles between the 4th and the 6th of June 2009. At the same time a big exhibition on court costumes (17th-18th centuries) will be held at the Versailles Palace (16th march- 14th june 2009). The symposium will deal with topics related to clothing in European courts with a larger chronological time frame, from the end of the Middle Ages, when a « body of fashion » was established and when the courts began to expand. It ends with the last splendour of the French imperial court.
The symposium of Versailles will give the opportunity to survey the current state of research in this field, consider the evolutions between 1400 and 1815, compare the courts and grasp their mutual influences. The conference will be at the crossroads of several fields of research: the Court Studies that have shown the court to be a central site of power and culture; the history of material culture and consumption; lastly the fields of the culture of appearances and those of visual cultures.

Main research themes of the symposium

The field of study of the symposium bears on two topics that are closely linked: the material culture and the visual culture. First it aims to study the reigning princes and sovereigns’ sartorial culture through the clothes themselves, as they have been kept in museums, or/and through the inventories, accounts of wardrobes and bills. It also aims to study the various iconographical representations of princes and courtiers. They contribute to the construction of a of an elites’ sartorial visual culture whose place should be assessed in the increase in the number of fashion plates from the early modern era.
These topics will continue until our present-day so we can study the dress at court or more widely the old luxurious clothes through the fashion and the visual culture of the stage (theatre, opera), cinema or television.

The project rests on the participation of international scholars working in different fields, from the history of dress, economic and social history, history of art, fashion studies and stage and movies studies, etc. Its aims is also to bring together different jobs and trades working on dress and costume: researchers, curators, costumers and fashion designers.

The symposium looks at three topics:

• The reigning princes' and sovereigns' wardrobes in Europe (1400-1815)
- The contents of the wardrobes: case studies (styles, textiles and colours, the distinction between public and private use, between male and female wardrobes, etc); their economic value
- The present state of our knowledge on the royal and princely wardrobes in the different courts of Europe; historiographical approaches and research prospects
15
• The pictures of the way of dressing at courts in Europe (1400-1815)
- The sartorial court cultures through the iconographical representations: aristocratic portraits, scenes of life at the court, fashion prints, etc.
- The contributions and the limits of these sources for the knowledge of the sartorial court cultures in Europe

• The court dress put on stage: stage, screen, podium (20th-21st c.)
- To create the court costume for the stage and the show: craft, techniques; relationships between the costumer, the director, the scriptwriter or/and the historical adviser and the history of costume
- The use of the court dress at stage, at screen and in the historical television series: reconstruction or creation?
- The court dress and the fashion podiums: influences of the court attire on the fashion design in Couture

Registration for proposals

2008-04-23T05:46:00.000-07:00

The proposals for a lecture to the symposium would contain: name and surname, addresses, discipline or/and profession, research centre, an abstract of the lecture (one page, Word, Times 12, simple spacing) and a curriculum vitae (one page).

To be sent before the 15th of June 2008 to:

isabelle.paresys@univ-lille3.fr

IRHiS Septentrion - Institut de Recherches Historiques du Septentrion
UMR 8529 - Université de Lille 3 / CNRS
Domaine universitaire du Pont de Bois- B.P. 60 149
59 659 Villeneuve d'Ascq cedex

The scientific comity of the symposium will select the proposals to build the programme. The reply to the lecturers will be given early in July 2008.

Organization of the working sessions

2008-04-23T05:43:00.000-07:00

Isabelle Paresys (IRHiS - Institut de recherches historiques du Septentrion - UMR 8529 - université de Lille 3 / CNRS) (isabelle.paresys@univ-lille3.fr) is in charge of the scientific management in collaboration with Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset (researcher, château de Versailles).

The working sessions will be held at the Versailles Palace for two days and a half between the 4th and the 6th of June 2009. The conference will be organised into several theme-based sections consisting of 25-minute papers (French or English), accompanied or not by slide presentations.

The material organization and financing are provided by the Research centre of the château of Versailles (CRCV). Contact : Mathieu Da Vinha, Coordinateur de la recherche et de la formation (contact : mathieu.da-vinha@chateauversailles.fr)
Centre de recherche du château de Versailles
Pavillon de Jussieu - RP 834 - F-78008 Versailles Cedex

A scientific comittee will evaluate and select the proposals of papers for the conference. It will build the programme of the working sessions.

Working sessions

2008-04-23T05:42:00.000-07:00

The working sessions will be held at the Versailles Palace for two days and a half between the 4th and the 6th of June 2009. The conference will be organised into several theme-based sections consisting of 25-minute papers (French or English), accompanied or not by slide presentations.

Material organization

2008-04-23T05:39:00.000-07:00

The material organization and financing are provided by the Research centre of the château of Versailles (CRCV). Contact : Mathieu Da Vinha, Coordinateur de la recherche et de la formation (contact : mathieu.da-vinha@chateauversailles.fr)

Centre de recherche du château de Versailles
Pavillon de Jussieu - RP 834 - F-78008 Versailles Cedex

Scientific comittee

2008-04-23T05:37:00.000-07:00

A scientific comittee will evaluate and select the proposals of papers for the conference. It will build the programme of the working sessions.

The members of the comittee are :

Christine Aribaud, maître de conférences en histoire de l’art, FRAMESPA- université de Toulouse, France

Marco Belfanti, professeur d’histoire économique à l’Université de Brescia, Italie

Odile Blanc, docteur en histoire, INP-Institut national du patrimoine, France

Dominique Brême, maître de conférences en histoire de l’art, IRHiS - université de Lille 3/CNRS, France

Natacha Coquery, maître de conférences en histoire, CEHVI - université de Tours, France

Nicole Fouchet, maître de Conférences Mode et Cinéma Université Lumière Lyon 2, France

Thomas Lüttenberg, université de Bielefeld, Allemagne

Lesley Miller, Senior Curator , Department of Furniture, Textiles and Fashion, Victoria and Albert Museum, Royaume-Uni

Isabelle Paresys, maître de conférences en histoire, IRHiS - université de Lille 3/CNRS, France

Corinne Thépaut-Cabasset, chargée de recherche, château de Versailles, France

Research Programme: Dressing at court

2008-04-04T05:51:00.000-07:00

Dressing at court in France and in other European Courts.
Use, consumption, circulation (1650-1800)

Durée : 2009-2011

Dress remains a relatively neglected field of early modern court studies. Yet, the history of material culture and consumption is a rapidly expanding area of current scholarship on the period : much attention in particular has recently been paid to the luxury market while the history of sartorial appearances has been profoundly renewed in the last few decades. Paradoxically enough, French research has remained somewhat behind in this area of scholarship compared to the research carried out on the subject in Britain and America.
The Veticour project aims to start exploring the vast and partly uncharted territory of dress at court while steering clear of the issue that has tended to dominate studies focusing on elite clothing, that of the relationship between dress and power. A clear departure from a prince-centred approach of court dress, the program aims to study clothing worn at court from the point of view of the courtiers to focus on the sartorial practices involved by the microcosm of the court from the second half of the seventeenth century to the end of the eighteenth century — that is in the context of the increasing domination of French fashion in Europe.
Research will concentrate on the sartorial system of Versailles which has never been studied as such, as well as on dress in three great European courts which have been the subject of little research (London, Madrid and Vienna), as well as on more moderately-sized courts in Italy and Scandinavia. The international, pluri-disciplinary research group will focus on three main questions while research workshops will enable to confront and discuss results and lead to a publication at the end of the three-year project (2009-2011). The first question is that of practices — whether they be subject to written or unwritten regulations — and usages of court dress (the types of clothing worn, the specific system of bodily adornment involved by the court, and the factors that determined both the former and the latter). The project will also tackle the question of how these were perceived by contemporaries. The second aspect on which the project will concentrate concerns the contents of princely and courtly wardrobes as well as their management. This will allow the study of dress consumption at court. It will also lead to gauge the importance of the luxury markets around courts. The last question, which in fact intersects with the two previous ones, is that of the driving force behind court dress and how practices circulate between various courts or between the court and the town (social and trade networks).

http://chateauversailles-recherche.fr/francais/